Final Comments
The following posts were previously sent out to friends and family via email. The email included only a few pictures. Here we have finally been able to organize them in one place, add more pictures, and make a few changes. Note the posts are in reverse chronological order, and cover the period Sep 8 - Nov 15, 2006. Enjoy!
Pick Pocket Tries Again! (Karen's turn)
While we were in Florence we heard about the “fake baby” ploy. Apparently, young women will carry a doll in a snuggly and then use this to conceal one hand. Then they try to get close to you in a crowded situation and while you think they are attending to the baby, they use the concealed hand to rifle through your pockets or purse.
In Rome, all of my (Karen) warning antenna came to life when I was on a very crowded bus and a young woman got on with a baby (a real, very young baby) in a carrier strapped to her front. She was very close to me and I was watching her. When I looked down, sure enough her hand that had been concealed under the baby’s blanket was opening the zipper of my purse! Naturally, she didn’t get anything - and in fact there was nothing in the purse to take. Another lesson, and reminder to keep your wits about you when in crowded places.
In Rome, all of my (Karen) warning antenna came to life when I was on a very crowded bus and a young woman got on with a baby (a real, very young baby) in a carrier strapped to her front. She was very close to me and I was watching her. When I looked down, sure enough her hand that had been concealed under the baby’s blanket was opening the zipper of my purse! Naturally, she didn’t get anything - and in fact there was nothing in the purse to take. Another lesson, and reminder to keep your wits about you when in crowded places.
Rome (7 nights)
What a great city! While we expected to be overwhelmed with the traffic and the frantic pace, this was not so. Yes, it is a big city, but it was very manageable. Perhaps we picked the right time to be there.
Our B&B was also wonderful. It had a full kitchen which was available to us any time, and it was only a 10 minute walk to the Vatican and an easy walk to many of the other sites we wanted to see. With the exception of a half day rain, the weather was also perfect so we walked our feet off and learned to use the buses and metro to get around. Very easy.
We saw most of the major sights: Colosseum, Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain, Roman Forum, St Peter’s, Sistine Chapel and the Vatican Museums, Michelangelo’s Pieta, the Pantheon and a few churches. Lance might say otherwise, but we did NOT visit ALL of Rome’s 900 churches. Some are more interesting than others, but all are free and at the very least provide a quiet place to sit and have a rest. Then there are the gems where you find a little know work of art such as a Michelangelo sculpture or modern bronze sculpted doors that are a storey and a half in height.
A simple holy water fountain in St Peter's Bascilica!
Our B&B was also wonderful. It had a full kitchen which was available to us any time, and it was only a 10 minute walk to the Vatican and an easy walk to many of the other sites we wanted to see. With the exception of a half day rain, the weather was also perfect so we walked our feet off and learned to use the buses and metro to get around. Very easy.
We saw most of the major sights: Colosseum, Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain, Roman Forum, St Peter’s, Sistine Chapel and the Vatican Museums, Michelangelo’s Pieta, the Pantheon and a few churches. Lance might say otherwise, but we did NOT visit ALL of Rome’s 900 churches. Some are more interesting than others, but all are free and at the very least provide a quiet place to sit and have a rest. Then there are the gems where you find a little know work of art such as a Michelangelo sculpture or modern bronze sculpted doors that are a storey and a half in height.
St Peter's Square, Vatican
Colosseum
Venice (3 nights)
On Nov 5, we entered the watery world of Venice on the train - entering across a causeway that connects Venice to the mainland. Imagine a small, compact city where the main streets are water and the rest are small winding alleys where you are sure to get lost. In fact getting lost is half the fun. It is strangely quiet since there are no cars and no bicycles, only water taxis and water buses. But once you have taken the water bus from one end to the other, the best way to explore Venice is on foot. Every couple of blocks there is either a church or a grand palace to admire.
Today, the fate of Venice is focused on rising waters not rising wealth, sinking buildings and a shrinking population. The latter may be the most serious issue in the near term. Today the population is 60,000 while only ten years ago it was 80,000. If the "real" people leave Venice, it will become a theme park with tourist trinket shops rather than a thriving little city with a wide variety of services. If this period of history and architecture is of interest, plan a visit sooner rather than later!
As a city, Venice began in the 9th century and became a major seafaring and trading centre from then until the fall of Constantinople in 1453. Wealthy merchants built grand palaces and fabulous churches that are still standing today.
The great wealth and prominence of Venice is obvious. Holders of this wealth included merchants, noblemen, and clergy. They built grand palaces and churches that remain to this day including the fantastic St Marco's rebuilt in the 11th century. Although some of buildings are falling into disrepair, it is still easy to imagine what it would have been like during the time of Marco Polo or the intriguing characters from the Merchant of Venice.
Today, the fate of Venice is focused on rising waters not rising wealth, sinking buildings and a shrinking population. The latter may be the most serious issue in the near term. Today the population is 60,000 while only ten years ago it was 80,000. If the "real" people leave Venice, it will become a theme park with tourist trinket shops rather than a thriving little city with a wide variety of services. If this period of history and architecture is of interest, plan a visit sooner rather than later!
Tourists as Targets
With all of those wide-eyed tourists with money in their pocket, it's not surprising that there are a few pick pockets - well actually several! There are warning signs posted in many languages around some of the major attractions - but the signs don't stop the pick pockets! As Lance was leaving the Uffizi gallery, three people, 2 men and women, came up to him to ask him to take their picture. They posed, but the camera wouldn't work.
All 3 came to assist Lance. The woman stood in front of Lance, one of the men at the side giving instructions, and the other man who had an umbrella stood on his other side. For some reason, Lance looked away from the man giving the instructions at the man with the umbrella, and just as he did he saw the man taking money from the side pocket of his pants. You can imagine what happened next ... Lance started shouting obscenities and grabbed at the money. Good news ... no money was lost. But interestingly, the 3 just looked at him like he was a bit mad. They showed no indication that they had done anything wrong. There actions implied that Lance was simply a deranged tourist who had visited one too many galleries. Naturally, Lance was very pleased that no money was taken, but since then he has been wandering the plazas with the camera hoping to get a picture of the quilt trio. No luck so far!
All 3 came to assist Lance. The woman stood in front of Lance, one of the men at the side giving instructions, and the other man who had an umbrella stood on his other side. For some reason, Lance looked away from the man giving the instructions at the man with the umbrella, and just as he did he saw the man taking money from the side pocket of his pants. You can imagine what happened next ... Lance started shouting obscenities and grabbed at the money. Good news ... no money was lost. But interestingly, the 3 just looked at him like he was a bit mad. They showed no indication that they had done anything wrong. There actions implied that Lance was simply a deranged tourist who had visited one too many galleries. Naturally, Lance was very pleased that no money was taken, but since then he has been wandering the plazas with the camera hoping to get a picture of the quilt trio. No luck so far!
Phenomenal Florence (21 nights plus day trips)
Florence, a city of 370,000, is the place to be if you are a student of the Renaissance. There are churches, museums, frescos and monuments on every corner. The entire old section of the city has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. Even for those with limited knowledge of the era (like us!), it is hard not to be impressed. Where else can you actually see famous sculptures like Michelangelo's 14ft David?
But it can be overwhelming as well. On average, 20,000 tourists come to Florence every day! Apparently, we are here during the fringe season, and the line-ups are still significant. I could not imagine what it would be like at other times. People line up to enter museums and churches, tour guides lead their little groups from one monument to another, and there is something to buy at every turn. But we have had a wonderful place to stay - an apartment that is only a 10 minute walk to the Duomo (the main cathedral in the centre of the old city). And we a wonderful market, wine shop and bakery nearby. So we have been able to walk everywhere, and do most of our own cooking.
With Florence as our base, we took a few side trips into the countryside, and visited Pisa, Siena, as well as the Chianti wine country.
But it can be overwhelming as well. On average, 20,000 tourists come to Florence every day! Apparently, we are here during the fringe season, and the line-ups are still significant. I could not imagine what it would be like at other times. People line up to enter museums and churches, tour guides lead their little groups from one monument to another, and there is something to buy at every turn. But we have had a wonderful place to stay - an apartment that is only a 10 minute walk to the Duomo (the main cathedral in the centre of the old city). And we a wonderful market, wine shop and bakery nearby. So we have been able to walk everywhere, and do most of our own cooking.
Ponte Veccehio, Florence |
Duomo, Florence |
With Florence as our base, we took a few side trips into the countryside, and visited Pisa, Siena, as well as the Chianti wine country.
Lance leaning with the leaning tower |
Karen at the main square, Siena |
Italy: 4.5 weeks
Arriving in Florence
On Oct 16, we traveled by air, bus, train and taxi. We flew from Lesvos to Milan, took a bus from the airport to the train station, a train to Florence, and a taxi to our apartment. Or at least we thought the taxi driver had dropped us at the door of our apartment. Only after we were dropped off and after Lance had tipped him did we discover that we could not find the right address.
At this point, we were fairly tired, had no idea where we were, and of course, spoke no Italian! Finally, after mulling a bit, I approached some women sitting in a park. No, no one spoke English, but one of them spoke Spanish. Amazingly, I was able to call up enough vocabulary to communicate our problem. Two of the women walked with us, looked at my email and helped us to discover that we couldn’t find our apartment because we were on the wrong street. Good news, they helped us read the street signs, and find our apartment on the next street, one block from where we had been dropped off.
Once found, the apartment was perfect. It was spacious and well equipped, and the owners were helpful. We had access to everything we needed within a few blocks: market, laundry, bakery, wine store, café and restaurants. It was a perfect home for the 3 weeks we were there.
On Oct 16, we traveled by air, bus, train and taxi. We flew from Lesvos to Milan, took a bus from the airport to the train station, a train to Florence, and a taxi to our apartment. Or at least we thought the taxi driver had dropped us at the door of our apartment. Only after we were dropped off and after Lance had tipped him did we discover that we could not find the right address.
At this point, we were fairly tired, had no idea where we were, and of course, spoke no Italian! Finally, after mulling a bit, I approached some women sitting in a park. No, no one spoke English, but one of them spoke Spanish. Amazingly, I was able to call up enough vocabulary to communicate our problem. Two of the women walked with us, looked at my email and helped us to discover that we couldn’t find our apartment because we were on the wrong street. Good news, they helped us read the street signs, and find our apartment on the next street, one block from where we had been dropped off.
Once found, the apartment was perfect. It was spacious and well equipped, and the owners were helpful. We had access to everything we needed within a few blocks: market, laundry, bakery, wine store, café and restaurants. It was a perfect home for the 3 weeks we were there.
Our apartment, Florence |
Greece: 2 weeks (Yoga workshop on Lesvos)
If you want a different and more active vacation, try a yoga workshop. No doubt there are some that are less rigourous, but this one kept us very busy! Monday through Friday, we attended 2 classes per day: 9:30 - 12:30 and 19:00 - 21:00, Sat, we had 1 class: 10:00 - 12:00; and Sun was a free day. When you add in walking to the yoga studio (approx 20 min each way), you can see that we were busy about 7hr per day! Just time to eat and have a little rest by the pool in between. But it was a great break to be in one place for 2 weeks and our hotel and the island were perfect.
Through this workshop, we were introduced to Angela Farmer and Victor van Kooten, http://www.angela-victor.com/. They are both renowned yoga teachers although Angela is more famous. What a wonderful experience. We have stayed in touch, and because they own property in Sidney, BC, we have seen them social several times as well as attended additional workshops they offer in Sidney. Karen organized the Sidney workshops in 2008 and 2010.
Yoga students at work |
Bending in Greece |
Lance gets special treatment from Angela & Victor |
Lance grows taller with Victor's help |
Gallipoli Campaign (WW1 - 1915)
Travelled to Canakkale (tourist attraction for Troy ruins and the above campaign). Toured the Gallipoli Peninsula and the landing sites and graveyards from this ill conceived campaign. A little history lesson is now needed. The Allies wanted control of the Dardanelles (strait separating Europe and Asia and an important shipping lane through the Black Sea to supply Russia). This strait was controlled by Turkey who were allied with the bad guy Germany. Britain needed control of this strait to support and supply Russia. The British initially tried to invade the strait with warships but were quickly defeated since it was mined and heavily fortified with guns at the entrance. Then Winston Churchill conceived the plan to invade the Gallipoli Peninsula and attack the forts protecting the entrance to the strait by land.
The campaign began April 25, 1915 and the invading forces were quickly stopped and bogged down in trench warfare for the next 9 months until the Allies finally evacuated in Dec. 1915. During this time 36,000 Commonwealth lives were lost (Australians, British, New Zealanders, Indian, Newfoundlanders), 10,000 French, and 86,000 Turks. The tour was focused on visiting the various graveyards of the dead and explaining the mistakes the British officers made. This campaign was a great victory for Turkey (despite the loss of lives) and Mustafa Kemal Ataturk (the General who led the Turkish defense) later became the first president of Turkey and is now revered as a martyr throughout the country. His picture is everywhere similar to Ho Chi Minh in Vietnam. Many of the gravestones have inscribed on them LEST WE FORGET.
Touring the site drives home the folly of war. Why do we have such a hard time learning our lessons from history, evidenced by the current conflicts happening in the world.
The campaign began April 25, 1915 and the invading forces were quickly stopped and bogged down in trench warfare for the next 9 months until the Allies finally evacuated in Dec. 1915. During this time 36,000 Commonwealth lives were lost (Australians, British, New Zealanders, Indian, Newfoundlanders), 10,000 French, and 86,000 Turks. The tour was focused on visiting the various graveyards of the dead and explaining the mistakes the British officers made. This campaign was a great victory for Turkey (despite the loss of lives) and Mustafa Kemal Ataturk (the General who led the Turkish defense) later became the first president of Turkey and is now revered as a martyr throughout the country. His picture is everywhere similar to Ho Chi Minh in Vietnam. Many of the gravestones have inscribed on them LEST WE FORGET.
Touring the site drives home the folly of war. Why do we have such a hard time learning our lessons from history, evidenced by the current conflicts happening in the world.
A Novel Sign in the Toilet
It is very common to see signs posted in toilets - such things as 'Do not put toilet paper in the toilet' or 'Put toilet paper in the bin'. But this was a new one:
Not sure what you were supposed to do if you had to do 'number 2'! Fortunately, I was able to comply.
Perhaps there were similar interesting signs in the ancient Roman toilets.
Urine
Urinate
Only
Not sure what you were supposed to do if you had to do 'number 2'! Fortunately, I was able to comply.
Perhaps there were similar interesting signs in the ancient Roman toilets.
Roman toilet at Ephesus |
Ephesus
Ephesus was a Roman city. At it's height about 2 AD, it was the Roman capital of Asia Minor, a centre of commerce and trade with a population of 250,000. It is very impressive to wander the streets, climb around in the amphitheatres (one that seats 1,500 and one that seats 25,000), wander through the ruins and the buildings that have been restored.
The library is one of the very impressive restorations with it's 2 storey facade. One guide claimed that it was common for Roman husbands to leave their wives to do the shopping while they went to the library to study some topic of interest. But with a secret tunnel from the library to the brothel across the street, there is a good chance that they were studying some other topic of interest as their wives shopped.
The highlight was seeing the recently opened terrace houses. It is amazing to see the homes of the very wealthy of the time with mosaics and frescos, marble covered walls, and baths. These houses are also very uncrowded since there is a second admission fee charged. The only problem with Ephesus is that it is very popular, and therefore, can be very crowded. However, if you let your mind wander, the crowds can give you a sense of what the city might have been like on a busy market day. Perhaps Turkey's tourist department should give each tourist a toga to make experience even more authentic!
The library is one of the very impressive restorations with it's 2 storey facade. One guide claimed that it was common for Roman husbands to leave their wives to do the shopping while they went to the library to study some topic of interest. But with a secret tunnel from the library to the brothel across the street, there is a good chance that they were studying some other topic of interest as their wives shopped.
The highlight was seeing the recently opened terrace houses. It is amazing to see the homes of the very wealthy of the time with mosaics and frescos, marble covered walls, and baths. These houses are also very uncrowded since there is a second admission fee charged. The only problem with Ephesus is that it is very popular, and therefore, can be very crowded. However, if you let your mind wander, the crowds can give you a sense of what the city might have been like on a busy market day. Perhaps Turkey's tourist department should give each tourist a toga to make experience even more authentic!
Boat Trip: 4 days on the Mediterranean
We booked a 4 day 3 night boat cruise from Kale (Demre) to Fethiye. The cruise was recommended by our guest house host in Selcuk (Allison - Kiwi Pension). After a 10 hour bus ride, we arrived in Olympus and stayed overnight. In the morning, we took another bus to Kale to board. However, the tour operator failed to mention that our ship had engine problems on the last run and needed major repairs. It was moored beside an old wreck where we would spend our first day and night and most of the next day. It was a sleepless first night. The mechanics worked all night, and were constantly starting and stopping the engine: too much noise and choking diesel fumes!
The next morning, the crew took our repaired ship to pick up supplies while our group was left stranded on the old wreck with no food or water. Our stranded international group of 14 was made up of 6 Canadians (ourselves, Helen and John Money, Peter and Sheila Gallagher, strange as it may seem all from Victoria, BC, Canada), Luciana and Rosina from Uraguay, Isabel and Jose from Spain, Michelle and Glen from Australia, and Yimaz and Derya from Ankara, Turkey. The boat was supposed to return in 1 hour but after 5 or 6 hours the group became restless. I thought what a great theme for a new reality TV show, Mutiny on the Suleyman Bey (the name of the boat). Which nationality would break first?
The next morning, the crew took our repaired ship to pick up supplies while our group was left stranded on the old wreck with no food or water. Our stranded international group of 14 was made up of 6 Canadians (ourselves, Helen and John Money, Peter and Sheila Gallagher, strange as it may seem all from Victoria, BC, Canada), Luciana and Rosina from Uraguay, Isabel and Jose from Spain, Michelle and Glen from Australia, and Yimaz and Derya from Ankara, Turkey. The boat was supposed to return in 1 hour but after 5 or 6 hours the group became restless. I thought what a great theme for a new reality TV show, Mutiny on the Suleyman Bey (the name of the boat). Which nationality would break first?
In our case, the prize went to the Uraguayians followed closely by the Australians. They started yelling we're mad as hell and we're not going to take it anymore. However, no one could hear them and when the tour operator was reached by cell phone with demands for a full refund, he simply hung up. Eventually, around 3:00 pm our ship reappeared and the captain placated the group by giving each person a 50 lira free bar bill (the power of alcohol works again). The cruise then started (a day late) but the distances were small and we were able to complete the tour all ports and points of interest on schedule. Overall it was a great experience - great food, good crew, wonderful traveling companions, great swimming, and beautiful scenery.
Lance’s Hamami Experience (Turkish Bath House)
Decided to try a hamam (Turkish bath) which is a great tourist attraction in this country. Was a little apprehensive upon entering the hamami since no one spoke any English. However, no trouble understanding the cost, sign in English posted and for 36 YTL (Yeni Turkish Lira) you get a bath and massage. The sign also clearly stated that all tips were included for this price.
A male attendant then gives you a massage token, pestamal (cloth-like sarong), and kese (a coarse cloth mitten). He then takes you upstairs to a small cubicle where you undress, store your clothes, lock up your valuables and wrap the pestamal around you. This pestamal is never taken off since full nudity is a no no in this muslim country. When you are ready you go downstairs to the hot room where the masseuse takes your token and lets you in. This room is huge with a massive circular marble slab in the center and the outside ringed with individual basins where you sit and sweat and wash yourself with soap and then douse yourself with very hot water. Always being careful not to splash other occupants since if a muslim is splashed by an infidel he must begin his washing routine all over again.
Once you are finished washing, you lie on the marble slab to complete your sweating. After about 20 minutes your masseuse comes over and begins the massage. First he uses the kese to scrub your body from head to toe and then he lathers you with soap. He then begins a soapy massage that can only be described as an uncomfortably painful experience. I think they like to hear foreigners scream and beg forgiveness for their sins. This form of torture goes on for about 15 minutes, then you are rinsed off and allowed to rest on the slab and recuperate. When your senses have returned, you exit this hot room and the masseuse is waiting to remove your wet pestamal and replace it with a dry one.
He then wraps a towel around your head and another around your shoulders and leads you back to your cubicle. You get dressed (the attendant magically appears to give you some cologne for your face and get his obligatory tip). So much for tips are included, the tip jar is prominently displayed with samples of your required contribution. The attendant then leads you downstairs where your masseuse is waiting to shake your hand one last time (with another obligatory tip). Overall, a good experience but next time I will skip the massage portion, just too painful for me.
A male attendant then gives you a massage token, pestamal (cloth-like sarong), and kese (a coarse cloth mitten). He then takes you upstairs to a small cubicle where you undress, store your clothes, lock up your valuables and wrap the pestamal around you. This pestamal is never taken off since full nudity is a no no in this muslim country. When you are ready you go downstairs to the hot room where the masseuse takes your token and lets you in. This room is huge with a massive circular marble slab in the center and the outside ringed with individual basins where you sit and sweat and wash yourself with soap and then douse yourself with very hot water. Always being careful not to splash other occupants since if a muslim is splashed by an infidel he must begin his washing routine all over again.
Once you are finished washing, you lie on the marble slab to complete your sweating. After about 20 minutes your masseuse comes over and begins the massage. First he uses the kese to scrub your body from head to toe and then he lathers you with soap. He then begins a soapy massage that can only be described as an uncomfortably painful experience. I think they like to hear foreigners scream and beg forgiveness for their sins. This form of torture goes on for about 15 minutes, then you are rinsed off and allowed to rest on the slab and recuperate. When your senses have returned, you exit this hot room and the masseuse is waiting to remove your wet pestamal and replace it with a dry one.
He then wraps a towel around your head and another around your shoulders and leads you back to your cubicle. You get dressed (the attendant magically appears to give you some cologne for your face and get his obligatory tip). So much for tips are included, the tip jar is prominently displayed with samples of your required contribution. The attendant then leads you downstairs where your masseuse is waiting to shake your hand one last time (with another obligatory tip). Overall, a good experience but next time I will skip the massage portion, just too painful for me.
An ancient hamam
Lance is Duped
On route to the train station in Istanbul, we pass a shoe shine man walking along the street. Let's call him Mehmet, a common Turkish name.
As Mehmet passes Lance, he drops one of his brushes - seemingly unknowingly. Lance, the helpful, picks up the brush and calls out to get Mehmet's attention. No response. Lance calls out again and hurries towards him. Mehmet turns, realizes what has happened, and is openly grateful. He clutches Lance's hand, and shakes it enthusiastically as he beams and offers his thanks in Turkish. Then he insists that he must polish Lance's shoes, implying that this is offered in payment for the returned brush.
As the thorough polishing proceeds, it is clear that there is another motive! Mehmet has not had a good day. He has 3 children at home. They are starving and may not have anything to eat tonight. Mehmet suggests that 10 or 12 Lira would be an appropriate payment for his repayment shoeshine. Lance realized this pitch was coming before he heard the amount, and he is ready. He had asked me for some coins - I gave him 3 thinking they were 1 Lira coins. But they turned out to be .5 Lira coins. So I guess it's only .50 Lira per child tonight. But despite the lesser payment, Mehmet leaves in good spirits waiting to drop his brush at the feet of someone else - perhaps someone who only has a 10 Lira note, and no coins!
As Mehmet passes Lance, he drops one of his brushes - seemingly unknowingly. Lance, the helpful, picks up the brush and calls out to get Mehmet's attention. No response. Lance calls out again and hurries towards him. Mehmet turns, realizes what has happened, and is openly grateful. He clutches Lance's hand, and shakes it enthusiastically as he beams and offers his thanks in Turkish. Then he insists that he must polish Lance's shoes, implying that this is offered in payment for the returned brush.
As the thorough polishing proceeds, it is clear that there is another motive! Mehmet has not had a good day. He has 3 children at home. They are starving and may not have anything to eat tonight. Mehmet suggests that 10 or 12 Lira would be an appropriate payment for his repayment shoeshine. Lance realized this pitch was coming before he heard the amount, and he is ready. He had asked me for some coins - I gave him 3 thinking they were 1 Lira coins. But they turned out to be .5 Lira coins. So I guess it's only .50 Lira per child tonight. But despite the lesser payment, Mehmet leaves in good spirits waiting to drop his brush at the feet of someone else - perhaps someone who only has a 10 Lira note, and no coins!
Comments and Contrast
When in Turkey ...
• One minute you can be exploring buildings that are 1500 years old and the next having coffee in Starbucks.
• Tea is the drink of choice, and "take out" tea is available in an old traditional form. Tea is delivered by smartly dressed men in small glasses on silver trays. These men deliver tea to shop keepers in market stalls and even taxi drivers waiting at taxi stands. The customer takes a glass from the tray, deposits money, and takes one, two or three cubes of sugar. Later the tea man returns for the empty glasses - an old traditional custom with no recycling required!
• Merchants at many of the tourist stalls offer "genuine fake watches" along with many other trinkets - some how we were able to resist.
• While on the boat (more details below), it was a little windy and rather rough one day. "Where are the life jackets?", someone asked. Another quick-witted passenger retorted, "Weren't you paying attention during the safety video?" (Needless to say, in a country with no life jackets, there was also no safety video!)
• One minute you can be exploring buildings that are 1500 years old and the next having coffee in Starbucks.
• Tea is the drink of choice, and "take out" tea is available in an old traditional form. Tea is delivered by smartly dressed men in small glasses on silver trays. These men deliver tea to shop keepers in market stalls and even taxi drivers waiting at taxi stands. The customer takes a glass from the tray, deposits money, and takes one, two or three cubes of sugar. Later the tea man returns for the empty glasses - an old traditional custom with no recycling required!
• Merchants at many of the tourist stalls offer "genuine fake watches" along with many other trinkets - some how we were able to resist.
• While on the boat (more details below), it was a little windy and rather rough one day. "Where are the life jackets?", someone asked. Another quick-witted passenger retorted, "Weren't you paying attention during the safety video?" (Needless to say, in a country with no life jackets, there was also no safety video!)
Turkey: 3 weeks
We were in Turkey for 3 weeks: 6 days in Istanbul where we caught the main sites - Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, Aya Sofya; 2 days in Canakkale - near Galipoli; 2 days in Ayvalik - to sort out our ferry to Lesvos, Greece; 2 days in Seluk; 4 days on a boat; and back to Selcuk for the last 4 days - Ephesus, Pamukkale, and more. Stories and highlights follow.
Roof Top of the Blue Mosque, Istanbul
The Itinerary
In the fall of 2006, we booked an "open-jaw" ticket and arrived in Istanbul, Sep 8, and departed from Rome, Nov 15. Here are some of our adventures and pictures. Our detailed schedule was Turkey, Sep 8 - Oct 1; Greece, Oct 1 - 16; and Italy, Oct 16 - Nov 15.
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